48 hours at Banyan Tree, AlUla
The Property
Arriving at the most luxurious address in the Ashar Valley Desert, you'll catch sight of 47 canopy villas spread across the desert terrain. From a distance, the layout is aesthetic and clever. Your eyes can’t help but glaze from the canopies over to the majestic canyons—which are patiently waiting to be witnessed. Meanwhile, a long, snaking path guides you past Marayaa, the most stunning mirrored concert hall in the world. It's a mesmerizing visual symphony. The sense of wonder and design impact you feel here is thanks to Banyan Tree's collaboration with Aw2’s architecture and design firm. The entire scene is the perfect introduction to this otherworldly landscape. Guests who decide to check in at Banyan Tree are up for days of outlandish beauty, supreme comfort, and adventure. Spend days savoring the property’s exquisite cuisine at its two restaurants. Unwind for hours by the pool, or treat yourself to the spa nestled in the sandstone cliffs. The property offers plenty of opportunities for morning walks, yoga sessions, and bike rides. Other spirited pursuits like visiting ancient sites or heading to AlUla town lead guests off the property by private car.
Check in
Pulling up to a warm terracotta facade, we were greeted by polished concierges in crisp white kandoras and checkered ghutras. Porters swiftly glided by in glossy Banyan buggies with huge, eager-to-please smiles. Inside, we were offered warm, slowly poured coffee, and pastries were placed with care. The managers and staff proudly shared the property’s unique experiences, but they also gave us time and space to sip, look around, and consider. Everything was done slowly, as if the desert had taught them to move with intention. The lobby felt more like a private gallery, immediately drawing us in. Our eyes naturally panned over to the sprawling outdoor lounge. The grounds here are extensively cocooned in cushy seating and extend over to the property’s international restaurant Harrat. It's perfectly suited for breakfast or dinner with unspoiled views. The atmosphere was utterly tranquil—- and the views astounding . Only punctuated by the soft hum of locals and internationals checking in.
The villas
Whisked away by club car, you'll catch sight of rambling manicured sand lots, massive fire-belly sandstones, and baby blue skies that announce—ordinary spaces here do not exist. The huge batwing canopies lined side-to-side aren’t just a decorative statement either; they are an ecosystem engineered to catch rainfall and shade guests from the scorching heat. Each villa is designed to give you a deeply lived-in experience. Dune One and Two villas tuck couples into double-height rooms, with neutral tones pared back with sleek wooden furnishings and cozy king-size beds. Deep tubs are clad in terrazzo and open with ridiculously large rain showers in brushed copper finishes. Backlit wardrobes sit stacked with plush cotton essentials. Spacious patios roll onto sandy lawns with a fire pit and cozy seats (few have pools). The hidden cubbies are stocked with glass-bottled waters, dinnerware, and herbal teas ready for steeping. Dune Three and Four villas carry over the spirit of lavishness in design, but are much larger in scale. Perfect for families or groups. The villas genuinely couldn’t be better equipped. The pièce de résistance: each villa frames its own angle of the otherworldly scenery. So whichever stay you choose, rest assured, the property is cinematic from dawn to dusk.
Dune One Villa
Our Dune One villa was perfectly oriented toward the Maraya. Inside, a graceful soundtrack playing on the TV lulled us into a sprawling bedroom. Cool air and fresh energy dominated with a superb mint-condition feeling (like we were its first guests). We immediately nibbled our way through the table spread of sweet treats that awaited us. Our king-size bed was the centerpiece: a sleek walnut frame, dressed down with white linens. The kind that instantly signaled a slumber would swallow us up whole (and yes, we slept so well). Oh, but the ensuite bathroom? A destination of its own. Walking in, a Terrazzo bathtub sits front and center with its wide shape. It's almost instinctive to add in some lemon and orange slices and live in there for a while (ask the concierge about the customized signature bath ritual ). Double vanities flanked the bathroom, with his-and-hers sides, and Bergamot-scented bath and shower gel.
Yet, the rain shower is what stole us. The whole alfresco element was not a gimmick. The indoor-outdoor play gave us the perfect excuse to linger a little longer in deliciously warm, pressurized water (and we did). There was a generous amount of freshly folded towels, robes, and a host of toiletries perfectly placed to anticipate our every need. Of course, once outside, I was instantly captivated by the romantic fire pit and its eternal view. I quickly dialed the concierge and requested a fire for the evening (you can call the concierge to set the fire anytime; I called in the morning, too; I couldn’t resist). Sitting in the majlis sofas, facing the primordial canyons, we were treated to a view that snapped us out of any jet lag we had left. We spent the following morning and evening here, and it was honestly even more magical. The batwing over the corner lounge served as the perfect area to relax in our robes.
Poolside
Perched between two colossal sandstone cliffs, the infinity pool instantly pulled us in the moment we arrived. Its immensity could only be described as a quiet drama. From the pool’s travertine stairway to its deck, the design is flawless. The signature Banyan Tree towels draped over sun loungers extended an undeniable invite.
We spent hours here swimming and relaxing. The only sounds breaking the silence were my partner’s playful dives and our laughter. I spotted a guest when we first arrived, but for the rest of the time the entire pool was ours. Staff here were pretty invisible too, but in a good way. A food and drink menu was available, but we didn’t notice until we were departing; clearly the pool had us in a trance. I did come back the next day after my spa appointment for another dip.
Honestly, there is just something so magnetic about infinity pools that enthralls me to my core. So yes, I booked this stay for this out-of-world pool experience above all other reasons, and it did not disappoint. This is not a poolside experience where you’ll find music playing or kids running around. It’s adults-only, and tranquility is the takeaway. The pool is usually open year-round. If you're lucky enough to have it all to yourself, the way we did, the feeling here multiplies tenfold. (Always call ahead; I heard they closed the pool a few times in the past and recently for maintenance.)
Dinner
There are two excellent restaurants on the property to keep you well-fed throughout your stay.Harrat restaurant serves well-known international and local dishes, while Saffron, their signature Thai restaurant, honors Banyan Tree roots with Asian cuisine. Chef Widyarasan and the team lead both restaurants with a flavor-forward culinary ethos embedded in every dish. Menus are guided by the seasons, and chefs source the freshest foods from the farmlands around the region. Both restaurants boast sweeping views. It’s Saffron’s online menu that stands out with eye-pleasing dishes that we ultimately decided on. If privacy beckons, the property offers more intimate candlelit dinners in the midst of sands; others set up Bedouin heritage-style dinners, and personalized in-villa BBQs with private chefs can be arranged.
For us, dusk swallowed the afternoon; our bellies rumbling, we headed out to immortalize the moment with what we knew would be an unforgettable dinner. Saffron welcomed us with lustrous wood walls, ornately carved Mandela panels, and tables accented in vibrant red and orange hues. There wasn't a crowd, but that seemed the norm (still, it's worth reserving ahead). Opting to sit outside, our waitress kindly guided us to an al fresco table for two under the stars.
She started our dinner with four rice dishes. It included Titus Minted, Butterfly Pea, Jasmine, and Saffron. The Butterfly Pea was impressive-looking, but we learned it was more for aesthetics than for flavor. The Titus Minted didn't really complement my meal of choice much either. The Jasmine rice was actually the sweet spot. On our waitress’s recommendation, my partner started with a Khong Wang Ruam, an assortment of juicy Thai appetizers. Think: crispy chicken satay skewers, grilled to perfection and served with a side of creamy peanut sauce; succulent prawns wrapped in spicy noodles, and crispy sea bass rolls filled with crunchy cashews, served with a side of pomelo salad tossed in tamarind sauce. If you like the way that sounds, consider this a starter meal. My partner enjoyed it because it was not too intimidating.
I chose to dive into a steaming bowl of classic Tom Yum Goong. My obsession with this hot, sour prawn soup made with mushrooms, lemongrass, galangal, and a hint of coconut milk goes back to my travels around Thailand, but that’s a story for another day. Here, I found it to be sublime. I sipped it slowly, making sure to enjoy all the flavors. Then followed up with a main dish of Pla Sam Rod, a deep-fried, crispy sea bass lightly glazed in a trio of chili sauces. The combination of sweet, sour, and spice was notable, and the portion was good, but I left a little on the plate. The texture was not a hit on my palate.
Overall, the food was presented and cooked exceptionally well, and the baristas made mocktails that were absolute bangers. The Phuket Cocktail, in particular, was our go-to. The muddled lemongrass and kaffir lime were the perfect combo (highly recommend). We reordered as soon as they hit the table. To end this coma-inducing spread, we returned to our villa, where a perfectly lit fire pit and dreamy stargazing night sky awaited.
Breakfast
Come morning, breakfast takes place at Harrat. The dining room has a minimalist design with nods to AlUla’s heritage seen throughout. Snug wooden tables for two are spread out, plus some in banquette-style for families to cozy up into. Others spill over onto the terrace with the never-tiring desert view. Our meals were à la carte and paired with a delicious buffet with many warm treats.
I ordered a main dish of Avocado Toast: perfectly poached eggs piled on top of smoky salmon, smashed avocado, sprinkled with tart pomegranates, dill, chili flakes, and a side of labneh in olive oil. The labneh was the twist. A cool, thick spread that had a tangy yogurt flavor. The in-house bread, which is baked daily, had a perfect crust that held up my drippy eggs with a good bite (thankfully not the soggy kind). My meal was satisfying—but it’s the traditional hot dishes like Shakshuka, a Middle Eastern take on poached eggs, that are the real highlight. I regret not ordering it. My partner also played it a little too safe, but he enjoyed his velvety, cheesy eggs with a side of grilled sausages.
A trip or two to the buffet should not be missed. A dessert that deserves special attention, if available, is the Apricot Mohalabia: a spread of milk pudding layered with thick apricot jelly and topped with fresh berries (which I quickly devoured). The croissants here were warm, but just okay. For a healthy heart choice: overnight oats topped with diced green apples and sultan pistachios layered with dairy-free yogurt can be the go-to.
The staff created an attentive energy around us that made us feel cared for and special. And we ate that up, too. Expect a good meal with memorable personal attention. The best way to cap off breakfast was a no-brainer——a bike ride around the property. We pedaled our hearts away to the rhythm of deep silence, open skies, and giant canyons. It was just the right amount of adrenaline to keep us fully present.
Wellness Spa and Beyond
Banyan’s Spa is simply a must, even if hands-on body treatments are not typically your thing. Sitting within view of the pool and ginormous sandstone cliffs, the spa offers a clutch of treatment rooms, a gym, a yoga shala, and many sun loungers that wrap around it ( all complimentary with classes throughout the week). You can easily slip from one space to the next between sessions. Interiors are a little stiff and refined, but staff lulls you in with their soft presence and pot of herbal tea. Treatments are rooted in Thai rituals with a touch of Arabic botanicals plucked straight from around the region. Imagine: decadent fruit-and-tea-infused body scrubs, silky head-to-toe body conditioning, and 100%caviar facials (all so tempting).
My prime pleasure at any spa is always a deep tissue massage. The Tailored For Your Senses package hit the mark with its optional pairing. A 90-minute full-body, deep-tissue massage with a foot release didn’t need any convincing. From start to finish, the intoxicating smell of lemongrass kept me deeply immersed. The black pepper and lavender oil mixed with green tea powder in my masseuse's hands were heavenly! This was quite literally the only time the views didn’t matter. Take it from me: the masseuse will transport you into sweet oblivion. I left happily grinning, feeling renewed, and thanking the GM, Hakam, for this recommendation. It was, as he said, “The best massage in AlUla” (seriously, ask for Ciangli).
For those who want a more activity-filled itinerary outside of the hotel and wellness spa offerings, you can arrange a private car with the Banyan concierge to get you around town. There are so many adventurous opportunities- from Hegra, Saudi’s first Unesco World Heritage Site— to Elephant Head—a stunning geological formation; to wildlife sightseeing, hot-air balloons, and even hikes that take you deep into the canyons, while others lead you straight to rock climbing and zip-lining— ( spoilt for choice).
Final Thoughts
Banyan Tree was the perfect introduction to AlUla. Time here feels infinite and unimportant, that is, until it's time to check out. If there is one thing this trip taught me, it’s to book with more time—considering the jetlag and possible mishaps of airport delays and lost luggage, which are always happening (and did happen). 48 hours was simply not enough. This is the kind of stay that deserves at least three to five days. And if we’re talking AlUla in general, it deserves a week easily. This magical landscape, with its majestic rock formations, historical landmarks and beautiful Bedouin culture, is something every curious and discerning traveler should experience. I would absolutely stay again.
https://www.banyantree.com/saudi-arabia/alula
Best time to visit:
AlUla is a year-round destination, but visiting Oct through March is ideal for weather and activities. Think warm days in the 70s and cool nights in the 60s (light sweater nights). July through August is brutally hot with 100+ degree days that keep you pool- and spa-bound—expect some activities to be limited. Check out https://www.experiencealula.com/en/whats-on.
How to get there:
There are no direct flights into AlUla from the US, UK, or most countries. We connected in Cairo, but most layovers happen through Dubai, Doha, or Jeddah. You can rent a car at the airport or arrange a private pickup with Banyan Tree—it's a 30-40-minute ride from the airport to the resort (we rented a car).
Best for :
Couples and honeymooners, as the property leans more toward a quiet, romantic, wellness sanctuary than a children-driven resort, but families with older children do well here.
Visa:
Yes, you need a visa, and it’s better to get it done right away. ( $130+ per person ) https://visa.visitsaudi.com/
